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OVERVIEW
LIMA
Lima,
City of Kings, was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535
on 6 January, the Feast of the Kings (Epiphany). It was
designed to be a purely Spanish city in a conquered
territory, but it has turned out to be a rather drab and
patched-together place, especially after 450 years of
earthquakes. It is as chaotic as one might expect in a
city where more people live today than did in the whole
country in 1970.
One might think the city is
choking in smog, and this is certainly true. But at the
seaside, most of the time the clouds waft in at real low
altitudes, adding to a depressing feel of the city. It
does make for a city which is not as hot as one would
expect.
Traffic is crazy, with
buses competing with each other and the millions of
taxis for passengers. Respect comes with the size of the
vehicle -- pedestrians are low on the food chain. People
tend to drive as if they were on a mission to wear out
their brakes and refill their gas tank as soon as
possible.
Lima is a destination that offers something for
everyone. 105 kilometers north of the city, you
find the Lomas of Lachay National Reserve where
the desert mountains turn green between July and
November due to the winds that carry the fog
from the ocean to create an abundance of
humidity. This natural enclave is home to foxes,
deer, and uncountable numbers of birds as well
as a large amount of wild flowers.
EATING
OUT
Gastronomy has always been,
since the days of the Spanish viceroyalty, an essential
aspect of life in Lima. During the last few years,
however, the city's dining scene has experimented a huge
leap, probably because we have become aware of the
exceptionality of Peruvian cuisine, and today Lima is
considered the Gastronomical Capital of Latin America.
The offer in Lima is nowadays most varied and covers a
wide range of types and cuisines, both regional and
international.
Notwithstanding the wide
range of choice in Lima's many restaurants, ceviche is
surely number one on the list of dishes you must get to
know, not only because it happens to be the peruvians'
national dish, but because of its unparalelled delicious
taste. With the increasing interest in the peruvian
cuisine, the ceviche is quickly making its way into
tables all over the world, but if you want to enjoy the
real thing you don't miss your stay here in the
ceviche's Meca. There is at least one cevichería in
every neighbourhood, so it won't be hard to find one.
Moreover, most criollo restaurants include ceviche on
their menus; indeed, many restaurants do, even the more
upscale nouveau-cuisine.
A second must goes to Asian
cuisine, both Chinese and Japanese, which, predictably,
has a strong Peruvian influence. Chifas -that is,
Chinese restaurants-, which can be counted by the
hundreds if not thousands, are usually down-to-earth
neighbourhood eateries, offering a fare rich in seafood
and chicken. Japanese restaurants and sushi bars, on the
contrary, are less widespread, and more upscale and
expensive. Their forte is, of course, a year-round
supply of the freshest and most variegated seafood,
which is delightfully transformed into sushi, sashimi,
and rolls.
Most of the best
restaurants in Lima are located in Miraflores, though
some are to be found in San Isidro, Surco, and Barranco.
Some people might be
interested to know that fast food from the United States
is alive and well in Lima. McDonalds, Burger King, KFC,
and Pizza Hut can be found in Lima and are very much
like their North American versions. KFC offers a
chicken prepared in a way (pressure cooked with its 11
herbs and spices) that is unusual to Peruvians with a
choice of yucca chips or papas fritas (french fries).
The best Pizza Hut for atmosphere (When have those two
concepts ever found themselves in the same sentence?) is
right on the corner on San Martin Plaza. There are even
a Hooters, Chili's, and Fridays in Miraflores, as well
as a big two-story McDonalds. But if you're a die-hard
junk-food junkie, then you'd better just stay in Lima,
because you won't find American fast food in other parts
of Peru.
GETTING
AROUND
The most common way to get
around in Lima is by taxi. As with anywhere in Peru,
passengers must always negotiate the price of the trip
before entering the vehicle. This is important so that
passengers don't end up pay far more than they should
for a ride.
Passengers should take
caution and keep an eye on valuables at all times. A
common trick for pedestrians is to walk up to a taxi,
reach in an open window, and take off with a passenger's
possession that is in plain sight. It is always a good
idea to put larger bags and backpacks in the trunk and
out of sight.
Lima is a place where
passengers should be especially careful when riding in
taxis at night. Most drivers are okay, but it is
regularly reported that taxi drivers have stolen money
from passengers late at night.
GETTING
THERE
JORGE
CHAVEZ
If coming from another
country into Peru (even from most destinations inside
the country), it is almost certain that you will be
flying into Lima's Jorge Chavez airport, which has
recently been given a substantial make-over. The new
mezzanine floor has a number of shops and cafes, plus a
small amount of similar facilities the other side of the
departure gates.
From here, taxis will be
easy to find (indeed, they will find you), but some
caution should be exercised. No cab will be metered, so
know your exchange rates, and agree upon a price
(preferably in Soles) before you get in any vehicle.
Anything much more than 50 Soles to Miraflores is
over-the-top, you should be able to settle on a price
below this. Centro would be a little less, Barranco a
little more - you may wish to see a tariff beforehand.
The journey should take
around 15-25 minutes if going to Miraflores (depending
on the speed of your driver, which may vary
substantially) - subtract or add around 5 minutes for
Lima Centro or Barranco respectively.
MUSEUMS
The following museums offer
an opportunity to examine closer the Peru of the Incas,
and the country's art and history.
MUSEO
LARCO
Founded in 1926 by Peruvian
archaeologist Rafael Larco Hoyle, the Larco Museum
showcases remarkable chronological galleries that
provide a thorough overview of 4000 years of Peruvian
pre-Columbian history. It is located in an 18 th century
vice-royal mansion built over a 7 th century
pre-Columbian pyramid and surrounded by a stunning
garden. The Museum features the finest gold and silver
collection from Ancient Peru and the famous Erotic
gallery, one of Peru 's most visited attractions. Larco
is one of the few museums in the world where visitors
have the unique opportunity to enter the storage area
and view its 45,000 classified archaeological objects.
Don't miss the restaurant Café del Museo or the Museum
Gallery Shop that sells certified replicas of the
Museum's most exceptional artifacts. The Larco Museum
's masterpieces are icons of pre-Columbian art and
continue to be exhibited in the world's most prestigious
museums.
MUSEO DE
LA NACION (Museum
of the Nation)
A visit to the museum makes a good introduction to a
trip in Peru. It rounds up the all the different
cultures accross Peru in a very thorough though
interesting manner.
Inaugurated in 1990,
exhibition in big rooms distributed in four levels, with
a sample that recreates all the pre-Hispanic
manifestations among 14,000 BC. and 1532 AD. Ceramic
exhibition, replicas of the main archeological places of
Peru. Dioramas, paintings and diverse collections that
represent the different aspects of the development of
the old Peru. Restoration shops, historical file,
libraries, galleries and auditorium.
MUSEO DE
ORO DEL PERU
Distributed in four big
rooms, it is the exhibition of one of the biggest
collections of pieces and jewels of gold, silver, semi
precious stones, ceramic and textile of the cultures
Mochica, Chimú and Vicus. Beautiful necklaces, tumis,
scepters, idols, funeral masks, etc. This collection is
the sample of the extraordinary advance and technical
goldsmith and metallurgic of the old Peru.
Part of these collections
are taken to other museums around the world, due to
this, their internal disposition can change.
Also counts with the "Museo
de Armas Antiguas" (Museum of antique weapons) from the
XV to the XX centuries, exhibition of a great collection
of weapons of different parts of the world.
MUSEO DE
ARTE (Museum of Art)
Located on the Palacio de
la Exposición (Palace of the Exhibition) since 1961. It
was built in 1872 with plans of Gustave Eiffel. Formed
by donated pieces and legacies. It exhibits collections
that show the art of Peru from the prehistory and the
first human discoveries until the contemporary art.
Ceramic and fabric pre-Hispanic cultures collections.
Silver jewels, furniture and colonial dresses. Paintings
of the "Escuela Cusqueña" and of the periods republican
and contemporary, outstanding the collections of Ignacio
Merino, Pancho Fierro and Carlos Baca Flor
MUSEO DE
ARQUEOLOGIA Y ETNOLOGIA
Collection of archeological
pieces of the Chavín culture and discoveries of the
University.
MUSEO
AMANO
The museum was founded in
1964, exhibition of pre-Hispanic textiles, quipus and
ceramics. Outstands the collection of the Chancay
culture.
MUSEO DEL
CONGRESO Y ANTIGIO TRIBUNAL DE LA INQUISICION
Located on the old colonial
local of the Tribunal of the Saint Inquisition that
originally was Nicolás de Ribera´s house (XVII century),
son of one of the conquerors of Peru.
The building consists on a
Chapel named "Capilla del Santo Oficio", jewel of the
colonial architecture, decorated roof that is considered
one of the most valuable colonial relics in the Peruvian
art, carved, secret cameras, torture rooms, and
underground prisons. After having abolished the
Inquisition it was the local of the University San
Marcos, the Senate of the Republic and at the moment
headquarters of the Museum.
Representations of the
punishments that were applied by the Saint Office
Tribunal. In the secret cameras is located the place
where the priests moved with ropes the head of the
famous Christ of natural size that approved the Saint
Office decisions.
Opening Hours: Monday to
Friday from 09:00 to 13:00 and from 14:00 to 18:00,
Saturday and Sunday from 09:00 to 13:00
Entrance: Free
TOURS AND
EXCURSIONS
Islas Palomino or Palomino
Islands.
Not known by general public
until recently, Islas Palomino is one of the nicest
excursions you can take in Lima. Featured as an
alternative to Islas Ballestas (Ballestas Islands), for
people unable to go to Paracas (a roundtrip of seven
hours from Lima), Islas Palomino is just an hour on
board a yacht from the historical port of Callao, which
in its turn is just half an hour from the center. The
tour takes full 4 hours and you'll also get to know Isla
San Lorenzo(San Lorenzo Island), Isla El Frontón (El
Fronton Island), and Isla Cavinzas (Cavinzas
Islands) islands full of old and recent history; and the
most exciting, the fabulous and friendly sea lions of
the cold peruvian sea; the amazing Humboldt penguins
(quite similar in looks and size to the Magellanic
penguins); and many other sea birds species. You can
swim along these young and playful sea lions as well, if
you want it too.
MANSIONS
PALACIO DE TORRE TAGLE: (Ucayali Street, 3rd block)
Present headquarters of the Peruvian Ministry of
Foreign Affairs. This mansion dates back to the early
18th century. Its main particularity is the inspiration
of the Sevillian, Mudejar and criollo styles in its
architecture. It has a stone portico and two carved
balconies, considered the most beautiful in Lima.
CASA DE PILATOS: (Ancash Street 390)
Present headquarters of the National Cultural
Institute. Dating back to the 16th century, it has stone
columns and a monumental stairway facing the front door.
CASA ALIAGA: (Jiron de la Union Street 224)
When founding Lima (1535), Francisco Pizarro awarded
to conqueror Jeronimo de Aliaga a piece of land owned by
curaca Tauli Chusco (main authority in the Rimac valley)
which served as a pre-Columbian adoratorium. Upon this
land the conqueror built this mansion in which his
descendants have lived since then. An unsual case in
America.
CASA DE LAS TRECE MONEDAS: (Ancash Street 536)
Its name means The House of the Thirteen Coins. This
single-storey residence dating back to mid 18th century
still preserves its original architectural elements.
CASA DE LA RIVA: (Ica Street, 426)
An 18th century building. Now headquarters of the
"Entre Nous" Cultural Association.
CASA DE OQUENDO OR PALACIO DE OSAMBELA: (Conde de
Superunda Street 298)
Finished in 1807, this mansion has five balconies
and a mirador from which the first owner of the place,
Don Martin de Osambela watched with a spyglass the
arrival of galleons to the port in Callao.
CASA DE LA RIVA AGUERO: (Camana Street 459).
Eighteen
century splendid mansion in which the Riva Aguero
Institute, and the Center for Humanistic Studies of the
Universidad Catolica, have their premises today. It also
houses the Popular Tradition and Art Museum, with its
selected exhibition of popular Peruvian art donated by
private collectors, the best of which are its masks and
religious images.
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